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I
AM SITTING in the entrance to the cemetery,
watching children play on the soccer field that lies right outside. There
is a little boy running around barefoot, dragging a kite. This is not a
store-bought affair with easy 1-2-3 instructions and a machine-stitched
nylon tail. It is much more beautiful, thin scraps of colored plastic wrap
pieced together with Scotch tape. This kite was made for the wisps of breeze
that flutter across the evening sky. It dips, rises, dips and finally soars.
But it wont stay up there forever.
I wrote of these kites once before, on the day I met Noe Moises Lovos
Ayala in a bare Pentecostal shelter run by a handful of recovering addicts
from the town of Quetzaltepeque. I had come to El Salvador to conduct
ethnographic research with street children and gangs, and had visited
the shelter several times in years past.
Forever tenuous, improbably sturdy, I commented with respect
to both kite and child. Projecting 10 years into the future, Noe had told
me he wanted to open a kite factory. And the imagery of those fragile
creationsfilled with a childs determined, impossible hopecaptured
my poetic optimism.
A 10-year-old who looked about 7, Noe opened our first conversation with,
Do you want to know my vices? I used marijuana. I used piedra.
Do you know what piedra is? I did know. Crack. He showed
me the scars where he had injected himself with drugs. I drank,
too, cerveza [beer], guaro [alcohol]. His 32-year-old
brother taught him, he said, back when he was only 9. Thank God
I dont do that anymore.
It took me less than 20 minutes to fall in love with this little figure
who told me that, when he was younger, he used to throw grenades made
by other kids in the gang. Like many of the street children I came to
know, Noe had associated with gangs since he ventured onto the streets
as a tiny boy. The gang provided him the illusion of protection and, more
important, a sense of belonging.
You put in the powder. You find a small rock to fit in the hole,
he explained. You wait two minutes, throw the grenade, it explodes.
He pointed to a thick scar on his leg. A grenade had exploded right next
to him. It didnt hurt; it just felt hot, he said. It only hurt while
it healed. Ive been lucky, he added. Thank God
nothing has happened to me. As I left, Noe stopped me. I have
a favor to ask, he said. I want you to teach me how to read.
Dark and thin, with a high, sweet and surprisingly loud voice and a captivating
smile, Noe told me that drugs and violence were the story of his past,
now that hed found God. And even though he had been brought to the
shelter for drug addicts and gang members against his will, even though
hed been there less than a week and was sometimes chained to a concrete
post so he wouldnt run away, I wanted to believe Noe in his poignant
dream about the kite factory. The little boy and his fighting spirit overcoming
the odds, rising high on a gossamer breeze one could hardly feelthe
metaphor was so beautiful, I thought it had to be true.
And now, 11 months later, I sit and wait for a coffin that would be too
small for most 11-year-old bodies. I feel a cold knot of silence buried
somewhere in my spirit, and I realize something: my poets optimism
is dead.
THERE WILL NEVER BE
an excuse for what they did to Noe last Wednesday, plugging him with three
shotgun shots, then throwing his body into a well on top of that of his
19-year-old friend, Oscar David Orellena (El Curso, they called
him).
The tragedy is not that the fish gnawed on Noes feet all night before
his body was discoveredhe couldnt feel it, after all, and
El Cursos body was much worse off, having been submerged completely
in the well. No, that is not the tragedyalthough it is what Noes
father repeats over and over. It is the detail that makes the horror real,
extracting little Noes face from all those statistics. The detail
that makes you realize how terrified he must have felt when they shot
El Curso for stealing corn from their field, then turned their guns toward
Noe, the only witness to the murder.
There is no excusethis much is agreed upon by the local adults with
whom I have spoken. There is no excuse, but there are plenty of explanations.
They were stealing, 18-year-old Sandra says with a shrug,
and this brutally factual assessment is echoed by youths throughout the
Quetzaltepeque bus terminal. These young men and women, addicted to drugs,
like Noe, sleeping in the streets, like Noe, have internalized the same
notion of justice as the vigilantes who killed Noe. They understand his
death in the logic of the fair fightan eye for an eye, a tooth for
a tooth, a life for a piece of corn. Just as they often seem to blame
themselves for their troubles rather than blame their parents, their community
or their local drug dealer (much less their government, their world economic
structure, their church or their God), so they blame Noe.
Less understandably, or maybe less forgivably, Noes father offers
the same explanation: They say he was the most thieving of all of
them.
But most people react simply by shaking their heads, murmuring pobrecito
(poor little thing) or pobre bichito (poor little creature)
and then commenting to those around that it is not acceptable to kill
a small child. However, no one, myself included, seems totally shocked.
I do not feel the stabs of pain of someone taken by surprise. Rather,
I feel the silent, helpless anger of someone who knew all along.
HERE ARE HIS PARENTS NOW,
in a white pickup truck carrying the paper-covered coffin. I follow them
into the cemetery, through land saturated with gaudily painted tombs and
headstones that say a perpetuidad. Forever. Gravesites
cost money, so Noe is being buried in earth that holds an ancestor andas
the gravediggers joke with his fatherwill soon enough hold another.
There is a brief debate over whether the freshly dug hole will be long
enough to hold Noe. But the coffin fits neatly into the grave, so the
four men present lower it down with ropes, discussing the larger tombs
around them.
Only seven people attend Noes burial. Of the four men, one works
at the cemetery, one is a neighbor, one is an uncle and one is Noes
father. There are two women besides me: Noes stepmother and a latecomer.
This is not because no one caredmany people wanted to watch over
the body in the traditional vela the night before. But the coroner had
said there could be no vela. By the time the family came to remove the
body from the morgue, it required immediate burial.
There are no prayers said as the dirt is shoveled back in, hiding Noe
from us forever. No one clears his or her throat to offer a blessing or
a word of commemoration as flowers are laid on top of the dirt mound.
The old cross, bearing someone elses name, is propped back up, for
the meantime. The neighbor mentions that he saw Noe at a dance the week
before with a woman who dealt crack near his home. I never imagined
I would be laying him to rest a week later, the man says. He
did like to go to dances, says his stepmother, Elena. And with these
few words, we turn to leave.
This one didnt want to live much, Noes father
says to me, as if by explanation. He always said to me, What
do I want to live for? My mother is already dead. I dont
have the words for an answer.
NOE'S MOTHER DIED
when he was a toddler, 1 or 2 years old. According to his grandfather,
by the age of 5, Noe was already spending most of the time on the street.
When I speak with the grandfather a day or two before the funeral, he
is angry. His father and Elena killed him. They ran him out of the
house with their alcoholism. They didnt give him food. They hit
him. His father always said, Let them kill him.... Ill kill
him myself. They are ingratos. If it were not for them, this
little boy would not have died yet. Today he would still be with life.
Noes grandmother, who has said she wants to denounce the parents
in court, agrees. The two of them, continues his grandfather,
have jail wide-open waiting for them.
When a child who has been hurt by so many people dies, it is difficult
not to assign blame. Indeed, Noes father and stepmother are commonly
known to be alcoholics. Some people allege that they were not permitted
to take Noes body out of the morgue early enough to have the vela
because they were drunk when they arrived.
Clearly, he grew up in adverse conditions, but the Noe I knew was not
a child who wanted to die. From the day I met him in that overcrowded
adult shelter, Noe was talking about changing, talking about faith, talking
about the future. Soon after, his father came and took him out of the
shelter, took him home. And soon after that, Noe was back on the street,
begging money, smoking crack and singing on the buses.
One day, he and his best friend, Omar, decided to take me along on a bus
to hear Noe sing. Omar sat next to me, and Noe made his way to the front
of the bus. He cleared his throat. Then he seemed to think of something
and made his way back toward us. He leaned over to me. I am going
to sing about God, he said, and talk about the shelter.
I gave a slight nod, unwilling to moralize. Noe sang, in his high, earnest
voice, and collected four colones (about 46 cents).
A month and a half later, several kids informed me that police had taken
Noe to the government home for minors. Dont worry, they
all laughed. Hell find a way to escape. I tried to figure
out which home Noe was in and what his full name was, in order to go visit
him. I gave up too easily, however, and didnt see him for five months.
Then, one day, I spotted him, grinning as he marched down the street to
purchase drugs with two older friends. From then on, whenever he saw me,
he made me a promise that was also an ultimatum. As
soon as you put up a childrens shelter here, I will leave all this
and go live there. Those, in fact, were his final words to me.
Oh, Noe, he wanted to live. He was full of life even as he was full of
shadows. The last time I saw him, we didnt say a word to each other.
I simply touched his back as he boarded another bus to start singing the
praises of a shelter that didnt exist and a God that couldnt
save him. Feeling my hand, he started and pulled away in instinctual self-defense.
When he saw that it was just me, offering a small gesture of affection,
he gave me a hug and got on the bus.
I LEAVE THE CEMETERY
without saying a word. Tears well up in my eyes, but they dont spill
over the way they sometimes do in movies, or books, or other peoples
stories. The children are still playing on the soccer field. I am drawn
toward them. I notice they are spinning a wooden reel wound with kite
string, but I look around and do not see any kites.
Finally, up near the clouds, I spot two diamonds, one pink and one blue.
They are dancing back and forth, improbably high. The children are laughing.
Jocelyn Wiener, 99, is a student in
the graduate school of journalism at Columbia University.
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